Susan Alcorn’s Report from Patagonia

Here’s part of Susan Alcorn’s mid-trip report during her backpacking trip to Patagonia in March:

Patagonia (photos by Susan Alcorn)

Hi friends and family,

Best I can tell this is Wednesday and I have found a computer (amazingly the keypad has the keys in the ̈normal̈location so this will be less difficult than on some even though the letters are well worn). We are waiting here at the hostelaria at Las Torres) in Parque Torres del Paine.

After two nights in Santiago, Chile, and two in Punta Arenas, we came to the park. Wéve hiked part of the ̈Ẅroute (the right side of the ̈Ẅ to the lookout of Torres. It appears that most visitors who like to hike and have the time, head for the ̈Ẅroute.

Our plan was then to hike the grand circuit of the park, which as the name implies, takes you on a grand circle around the park. This route takes you into the more remote backcountry and offers different views at the mountains that sit in the middle.

A daýs walk apart were the refugios and or campgrounds were Seron, Dickson, and Los Perros, and so forth. Think primitive, with mangy shower facilities with cold water (if you are lucky). Nothing is quite so fun as a cold, open air shower at 40 degrees with the wind whipping through!

But since we took our breakfasts and dinners at the refugios we were able to be inside a bit of the time, even if the ̈dining roomś̈ were adorned with wet clothing hung by us and other hikers. Sometimes I felt that I was entering a sauna from the humidity of drying clothing!

Patagonia (photos by Susan Alcorn)

When we reached the furthermost campground at Los Torres, we made the decision to retrace our steps rather than go on. To reach Los Torres we had to leave the cover (from rain all day) of the forest and surmount a large moraine at the base of Los Torres glacier. The wind was so strong that I could not make headway. I made the mistake of sitting at one point and could hardly manage to regain my footing. Ralph had to go ahead and place his backpack in a safe place, than come back and get my pack and carry it on. While I waited for him, I sat and contemplated spending the night stuck on this totally exposed, cold, and windy moraine because I was not sure if I could ascend further and into potentially stronger winds.

However, as this note makes obvious, I did make it over the top and we continued on into camp which was perhaps another 30 minutes.

When we reached Los Perros, we found that the facilities there included a tienda (store) and a large warming hut. I entered the door to find 18-20 people cooking their meals, drying out clothing, etc. In other words, drying out and getting ready for the night.

Luckily no rain that night, but next morning was the usual gray so that you cańt tell what the weather will bring. We were trying to make a final decision about going on–two night before those trying to cross over the highest pass, John Gardnes, had encountered blizzard conditions. Everything we had read to this point said do not try to go over the pass when it is raining (snowing, etc.) because of the exposure to gale force winds and the step descent.

Everyone else elected to go over–but I decided it was too much of a risk for me. We realized that hiking more slowly than the 20- and 30-year-olds means that we are actually in the exposed sections a greater amount of time. When I add that to my knowledge of how exhausting struggling against the winds for even a few minutes is, I was not going to try to be in that situation for a couple of hours.

Torres del Paine (photos by Susan Alcorn)

Well, I will close for now and collect my thoughts more before I continue this report. I will say that I am a bit disappointed that we could not go on, but that is more than compensated for by the fact that our descent was on a beautiful day surrounded by snowcapped peaks, several glaciers, waterfalls. We had the fun of making tons of stream crossings on logs and rock hopping–always challenging and exhilirating at the same time.

Yesterday we paid mucho bucks and went on a guided van tour with three others–lots of guanacos, birds, etc. The climax was a ride on a Zodiac and then catamaran onto Lago Glacier. The boat takes you right up next to the incredibily blue ice. We got to have Pisco sours made from icebergs floating by.

Today we take van, then bus back to Puerto Natales and then tomorrow on towards Los Glaceries (Fitz Roy and Moreno glacier) if all goes according to plan. One never knows.

Having an incredibly wonderful trip, could easily spend 6 months here, like Alaska in many ways.  I can hardly stand to leave this beautiful park where everywhere you look is is drop dead beautiful. We’ve met many fascinating people who have traveled other neat places.

Love to all–you have to get your tickets and get yourselves down here–it́s difficult getting here, but worth the effort!!!!!!!!!

(No time to edit, sorry!)

– Susan Alcorn