The GrassRoutes Story

by Serena Bartlett

Like cracking open a dusty geode, travel has revealed to me the many facets of the world. The crystals I found brought me the clarity to compare my known world with that of the previously unexplored. I was able to truly connect with the rich diversity that abounds. No other activity has had quite the same impact, offering a unique experience where both commonalities and differences in the quilt of humanity were vibrantly displayed. These inspirations occurred while traveling around the globe and around the corner. The cities I have called home have given me plenty of refreshing surprises. Whether boarding a plane for another continent, or walking a few blocks to a nearby neighborhood, no matter what my pocketbook dictated, I always managed to find new cultural gems.

As I walked the gangway on each return flight, I noticed that culture shock was as potent going home as when I had discovered new countries and traditions. Each time my reality was challenged with new ways of thinking and acting, I found I was less attached to one specific culture. After each journey I found I had new interests, different ways of dealing with difficult situations, and an altogether new perspective. The most important souvenir I brought home wasn't tangible-it was a more open mind.

As the pages of my passport filled up with stamps, I had a greater insight into each culture that could never have come from pictures or words. I also had plenty of stories to share. A minor bike accident I incurred in a Kyoto suburb brought a fleet of firemen to my rescue. A similar situation in Denmark roused little notice by other biking commuters, but meant a gratis cup of black coffee as I waited for the city bike to be repaired. (Copenhagen is equipped with its own fleet of public bikes for anyone and everyone's use.) In London, a city stigmatized by many Americans as having the worst food, I have enjoyed some of the finest international cuisines. The more I traveled, the more stereotypes were turned on their head. In short, travel has taught me that no generalization really holds up.

I became a detective of sorts, unearthing cultures. Out of earshot from town squares or famous landmarks, I became familiar with local traditions. When I returned home I kept up the habit, discovering a wealth of intrigue in my own country. As a cultural tourist I discovered unique adventures right around the block. I have since made it my mission to seek out the non-traditional attractions and cities.

The people who hovered around the cathedrals and museums were of greater interest to me than the cold monuments. The living, breathing collection of foods and voices, footsteps on the roads and walkways-those were the things that attracted me. I witnessed the world around me blinking like a disco ball, with authenticity being overtaken by all things virtual, but I trusted in another kind of travel. Wherever I was, the locals gave me the chance to have unique experiences rather than manufactured ones. By focusing on human interaction, serendipity soon replaced artificial stimulation.

GrassRoutes Travel was born out of my growing collection of ideas, inspirations and frustrations. I remembered the grim fact that Americans (United Statesians, actually) have the fewest passports per capita. I made up my mind to promote world citizenship, but search as I might I found no vehicle that expressed my ideas about travel. The Dalai Lama's wise words turned like a prayer wheel in my head: "If you have some [distress] you should examine whether there is anything you can do about it. If you can, there is no need to worry; if you cannot do anything, then there is also no need to worry." Doing something about it turned into GrassRoutes Travel.

…As you enjoy your travels, you can be satisfied knowing that you are a conscientious consumer. Chocolate cake, conscientious, you ask? You bought it from an organic, co-operative local bakery that supports school gardening programs and purchases sustainably grown ingredients from nearby farms. When I found out how much fun, and, ok, indulgence, could be had while having a positive impact, I chose to be a conscientious consumer. The undeniable facts amassing about the current state of our planet necessitates that more of us make this choice. And with such a bounty of local businesses dedicated to this spirit of positive change, it is becoming easier to support such a philosophy. Each listing in GrassRoutes Travel meets these standards in one aspect or another. So while you are venturing out into the world, and meeting real people in new places, your dollars are staying in the community, supporting everything from waste reduction to entrepreneurial youth, organic food to zero emissions public transit. Becoming a conscientious consumer gives each individual the power to effect positive change in the world.

I bring you GrassRoutes Travel Guides, created to benefit readers and communities. I hope you will try something new, even if you thought it was not possible. Having a genuine cultural escapade is directly proportional to your ability to let go of preconceived notions. All you need is an inquiring mind, a detective's spirit and the desire to get acquainted with the world around you.

Here are a few excerpts from GrassRoutes Guides to Oakland, Portland, San Francisco and Olympia:

Archive

317 Sutter Street at Grant Avenue, San Francisco
391.5550, www.archivesf.com
Open: M-Sat 10:30a-6:300p

I have a problem, not a big problem, but a problem just the same. My boyfriend hates shopping. For me, he'll happily tag along, if only to see me smile and try on different outfits. But for him, no way José. That was until we stepped, hand in hand, me tugging, him dragging his heels, into Archive. There's something supremely stylish and at the same time ultimately masculine about this Sutter Street boutique, where a pile of cash transforms into the most handsome outfit around. Find independent Japanese and Italian labels mixed in with a few local designers. Even beer-drinking Niners fans can get excited about clothes without the fear of going metro-sexual. Manly-man style morphs into something wearable and distinct.

Pizzaiolo

5008 Telegraph Avenue at 51st Street, Oakland
652.4888, www.pizzaiolo.us
Open: Tu-Sat 530-10p
$$ Fr PW Vtn

I believe the saying goes something like, 'go to California, but leave before it makes you too soft, go to New York, but leave before it makes you too hard.' I don't know where you are supposed to go after that. Pizzaiolo strives to bring that be-there-or-be-square toughness of New York into their Telegraph Avenue restaurant. The perpetual lines of people hovering outside look as though they are secretly hoping to get their snap shot in the seen-around-town section of some glossy Long Island magazine. It takes me back. But out of this hybrid sort of coolness comes an elegant whisper of a pizza. Delicate flavors dance on a crispy thin crust. The finest olives and anchovies or wild rocket and house-made sausage make robust pairings on smooth goat's milk ricotta, baked in the fiery brick oven. An assortment of other toppings can be sampled on their ever-changing menu. Fresh made pasta and a few meat or fish selections make a more substantial meal. Pizzaiolo is really all about the pizza, and I would recommend sticking with it. A clear exception to this rule however, are the soups, sheer and unwavering bliss. All ingredients are locally and sustainably farmed. Wear jeans and shiny shoes and get there before 5:30 to wait on one of the sidewalk benches-they take no reservations.

Pix Patisserie

3402 SE Division Street at SE 34th Avenue, Portland
232.4407, www.pixpatisserie.com
Open: Sun-Th 10a-Midnight, F-Sat 10a-2a

I've been called a "different" American; I often live in dreams of European excursions gone by. When I lived in London I attended free classical concerts at least once a week and when in Paris made the trek to Chartres not just for the cathedral but for the best macaroons. I get sappy from time to time, feeling out of sorts in the land of stars and stripes. Enter Pix, a place where any francophile, Europhile, or other phile can be themselves, indulge in quite possibly the best macaroons this side of the pond, and sip mind-numbing Belgian brews while reminiscing of other lands. I could write a whole chapter about Pix, but suffice it to say, this spot makes it possible for me to stay put in the good 'ol U S of A a bit longer for such an authentic experience. Beyond the ever-present macaroons are their stunning desserts, all dressed up and ready for the ball. The Amelié, a suave indulgence of orange crème brulée, chocolate mousse, and toasty hazelnut praline, garnered the Patis France chocolate award, a world competition. Other mousse favorites include the Aphrodite with passionate cherries; another chocolate incarnation, the Royal with cheese, comes with fine French brie a la Tarantino. There's a smattering of fruitier deserts, French classics, meringues, and even dolled-up cheese cake, but for me the choice is between my perennial aforementioned favorite and the pure chocolate decadence of Shazam and Queen of Sheba, two rather extreme versions of 75% dark chocolate, one with caramel marvel, the second just pure molten goodness. All this, and I didn't even mention their handmade truffles, of which there are a spectrum of flavors and shapes, or their holiday parties and seasonal specialties. Shake off your sugar buzz with some fine cheese, a single malt or some Chimay, one of many other elegant things to sip on. If you go to one place in Portland, you'll have a really tough choice between Powell's and Pix-it is that good.

Crosby House Museum

703 Deschutes Way SW, Olmypia
943.9884
Open: Seasonal Hours, call for more information
Admission: Free

I like to watch old movies on my work breaks, which has resulted in a huge VHS collection acquired from various thrift stores and depots around the West Coast. A recent arrival was "The Bells of St. Mary's," now my top choice Bing Crosby movie, (co-starring with Ingrid Bergman didn't hurt either). This was such a discovery! A classic film highlighting the frustrations and perseverance required to triumph over opportunistic business people with low-brow ethics and only the single bottom line in mind. Go Bing! So, of course I was happy to find that his hometown was Olympia, and you can walk through his family home and gardens re-living the wonders of his talent. Now I feel even more excited about this super star, and I suggest, along with picking up that film, that you check out his old haunts as well.